In the Italy's rich cultural heritage, there is a gem that often escapes the radar of travelers: Portogruaro. Nestled in the Veneto region, this charming small town is not only a hidden treasure but also a meaningful repository of history, art, and tradition.
Portogruaro boasts a history that dates back to Roman times, with its origins linked to the ancient settlement of "Portus Claudius." However, it seems that the name is linked to porto ( harbor) an appellation that dates to after 1140, and Gruaro, the name of a neighboring municipality that once controlled the area. Originally, in fact, Portogruaro was the river port of Gruaro for trade. The town flourished during the medieval period and became a vital trade center due to its strategic location along the river Lemene. The architectural remnants from different eras narrate the town's evolution. It features an array of well-preserved buildings, including several noble palaces - included one that appears on the label of the bottles of a renowned winery… -, the stunning Duomo di Portogruaro with its leaning bell tower and the characteristic windmills on the river. The central square, Piazza della Repubblica, has medieval influences and is surrounded by medieval buildings. Additionally, some old houses downtown date back to the Gothic and Renaissance periods. However, maybe the most significant aspect of this town is its atmosphere: Portogruaro is a pleasant, quiet town where you can walk, relax, and admire the surrounding. Not far from the town, there is Borgo Stajnbech, in Belfiore di Portogruaro. It’s a nice and welcoming winery run by the Valent family, and here there is Rebecca Valent, the current winemaker, who explains who they are and what they do.
The main goal of visiting this winery was attending a vertical tasting of their “Lison Pramaggiore DOCG 150”, a white wine named after the year of the DOCG - 2011 - when Italy celebrated the 150 anniversary of its national unity. Actually Lison is a white grape variety cultivated in Friuli and Veneto mainly. The grape was originally known as Tokai, but after Italy lost the 'war of the names' against Hungary, the grape was renamed in various ways: Friuliano, Lison, Tai Bianco, Tuchì, and perhaps I'm overlooking some other name.
The tasting included a tank sample (2024 vintage) that is being going for the sale in 2 years: “This wine requires more time - explains Giuliano Valent, Rebecca’s father - Today on the market there is the 2022 vintage. People who love Pinot Grigio want it young, but if they want to drink a Lison, they demand a more mature wine.”
The other bottles were older, up to a rare 2008. All the wines showed a consistency of style, nitness, respect for the variety characteristics, finesse, good balance. Lison Pramaggiore DOCG is a wine for the meal, easy to pair with daily food. When its’ young it has flavors of yellow citrus, white peach, sometimes with nuances of mint. When the wine is getting older, the bouquet turns to saffron and even hydrocarbon flavors. In the mouth is gentle, round, with a dry finish.
Our fav sip: 2019. The color in the glass is a light and bright yellow, there are creamy scents with notes of white almond pastry, and a touch of saffron. Long and round in the mouth, with a fruity and clean persistence. A truly good wine.