Exploring (and discovering) hidden gems in the Euganean Hills (1. st part)
There are many reasons to visit the Veneto region: Venice, Arena di Verona, Lake of Garda, Prosecco, Dolomiti… and much more. Shame that a meaningful part of this region between Verona and Venice is usually forgotten. It's like there would be a black hole there - or should I say Veneto's best-kept secret? Actually, the Colli Euganei area, with its natural park, a bicycle path more than 60 km long, the largest thermal zone in Europe, and many stunning places, are worth visiting. In just two days, you can experience living like a prince (or a princess) without having a royal title.
Grand Hotel Trieste & Victoria in Abano Terme (Padua) is our starting point. If you love the atmosphere of the Belle Epoque, you'll adore this hotel. Founded in 1912, it's a five stars luxury hotel with all the contemporary comforts. One of its strong points is the charm and the wellness benefits of a state-of-the-art thermal spa that makes numerous medical and aesthetic spa treatments: you won't miss a bio-thermal mud treatment because it's an experience that alone is worth the journey. But wellness aside, this hotel is also a piece of European history. The historic furnishings, the paintings, the porcelain, and the Murano chandeliers speak of the hotel's original style. The hotel housed the Italian Army's Supreme Staff Command during the First World War. On November 4, 1918, in room 106, General Armando Diaz signed the Victory Bulletin that ended the Great War. Now his apartment is one of the hotel's most charming suites, with the general's desk and original mirror from the period.
Abano Terme is a delightful small town, but the best is yet to come. Not far from here, the bizarre, surprising Castello del Catajo arises on a hill. It's an impressive Venetian building with 350 rooms - almost one for each day of the year! -halls covered in frescoes from floor to ceiling, terraces with breathtaking views, and beautiful gardens. It was conceived in 1570 by the Obizzi family, one of Renaissance Europe's foremost providers of mercenary forces. Obizzi wanted this incredible building as a representative palace to organize magnificent parties and surprise and entertain the guests. Over the centuries, the castle served as a mansion, a ducal palace, and an imperial residence: the list of historical characters - imperial family of the Habsburgs included - who inhabited this mansion is endless. Nowadays, it is a private property open for visits and personal or business events. Out of the castle, in just 15 minutes by car, you can reach the suggestive village of Arquà Petrarca. It's a tiny village with less than 2000 inhabitants but is regarded as one of the most beautiful hamlets in Italy. Is it a personal impression, or does even the air you breathe here has an almost medieval flavor? Never mind. This place must have something special if the Tuscan poet Francesco Petrarca decided to spend his last years of life here. When Petrarca was staying in Abano Terme to cure his disease with the local thermal waters, he stumbled upon the humble yet suggestive village of Arquà and fell in love with it. Eventually, he died here in 1374, and you can see his grave here. Literary allure aside, another more prosaic reason for this village's fame is its jujubes production: many houses here have at least a shrub plant in their garden. The local people make jams and syrups with jujubes or use them to fill dry cakes and cookies. The jujube fruit is also the main ingredient in the recipe for a particular old liqueur known as "jujube broth" - a local delicatessen we strongly suggest trying. Speaking about drinking, Ca' Lustra is among the best-known wineries of Colli Euganei. This estate was founded in 1977 by Franco Zanovello, who has always had special care for the environment and the ancient culture of the place: it's why the labels on the bottles are written with the archaic Venetic alphabet. The winery nowadays is run by Franco's children, Marco and Linda, who manage the 45 hectares of the estate with the same spirit. Twenty of them are cultivated with olive trees, chestnuts, and meadows, and twenty-five with numerous Venetian varieties, mainly white (Moscato Bianco, Fior d'Arancio, Garganega, Serprina, Malvasia, Pinella…) and some historic Bordeaux grapes (Merlot and Carmenere). The production philosophy is minimalist both in the vineyard and in the cellar. Since 2010 the company has been fully certified organic. The outcome is wines that reflect the volcanic mineral origin of the soil and, at the same time, the gentle and flourishing nature of the place: fresh, balanced, juicy Ca' Lustra bottles never disappoint you.
To close this first day, the restaurant Incalmo (Este, Padua) is a tasty and relaxing break: the cuisine style is contemporary, with original combinations and local ingredients of the highest quality. It's a small place, rich in charm, with a young and welcoming staff. (1- continue)